Also, due to the crowds on this mountain it is best to climb and attempt summit on a weekday if possible. But if you want an easier summit day, camp at boulderfield. You can also see the current conditions at Long's Peak Webcam.Conditions on this mountain, like all Colorado 14ers, are subject to change rapidly- especially during the prime climbing summer season. When lightning begins nearby, count the seconds between flash and thunder, then divide by 5 to calculate the distance to the flash in miles. Chasm View and Mills Glacier are the only two places I know of, but there are likely more. Again, you need permits to sleep here. Get off summits and ridges. Lightning kills people every year in Colorado's mountains.4. From the Long's Peak Trailhead the route is a classic class 3 climb and measures 15 miles round trip with 5000' elevation gain.This is a long, arduous ascent normally that gets quite difficult and even dangerous when conditions are bad. He was a 4-time All-Pro with the Detroit Lions and led them to NFL championships in 1952 & 1953. From the Ranger Station, start up the East Longs Peak trail. Long's Peak stands proudly as Colorado's northernmost fourteener. The trailhead is accessible in winter. A successful hike up Longs Peak via the popular Keyhole Route requires a pre-sunrise start and 8.4 miles and almost 5,000 feet of climbing to a 14,259-foot summit. For the northern approach, drive 9.2 miles south from the intersection of US 36 and CO 7 to the turnoff for the Ranger Station. If you want an alternative that is less crowded, slightly shorter by mileage, longer by time and more difficult actual climbing then the Loft Route is for you. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. Try to climb early and as a rule of thumb be off the summit by noon. Direct hits are usually fatal.Precautions1. The Keyhole route will attract several thousand climbers every summer. Protection1. For more details see the "Route Section" of this page for information on Kieners.Lavaca also adds this information: Though the Keyhole and Kiener's route are by far the most popular, there are many popular purely technical routes on the 900 foot north-east granite face, known as the Diamond. when water is turned off.). Continue about 250 yards past the Narrows to the base of Homestretch. Longs Peak Hiking Guide Hiking Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route. Lady Washington and to Granite Pass -. Nick Sangetta hikes Longs Peak in the Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado on August 29, 2018. How many miles is the Keyhole Route to Longs Peak? The routes here range from 5.10a (the Casual Route) to The Honey Moon Is over, which is around 5.13. Longs Peak casts a siren’s song over many people who are looking to test their mettle in the mountains. From the turnoff drive west 1 mile to the trailhead. The mountain gained federal protection because urban Americans came to believe that travel in undeveloped natural settings afforded them aesthetic, recreational, moral, and social opportunities not available in Denver and other fast-growing cities. Avoid sheltering in spark gaps under boulders and trees.8. A personal site with pictures, video and stories about climbing big mountains around the world. All of these routes are at least 9 pitches or so starting from the huge ledge that runs across the face around 13,100'. Repeat to determine if lightning is approaching. (15), Images In the summertime, when conditions allow, thousands climb to Longs' summit via the Keyhole Route. If you plan on climbing this mountain in the winter add 2-4 hours to your journey and be prepared to set up a winter camp. Rules; Route; Raison d’être For latest information call Rocky Mountain National Park at 970-586-1206 or you can go to RMNP weather page for up to date weather forecasts. Chasm View is around 13,500' and the Boulder Field is around 13,000', so be ready for high-altitude camping. Circle a date on your calendar (preferably a week day), or register for our Coloradoan hike Aug. 28 to hike Longs Peak. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. If you are going to do this mountain in one day you will need to start well before sunrise to be off the mountain before the afternoon storms come in. From the turnoff drive west 1 mile to the trailhead. It does follow historic and still-existing trails, is legal and the route used by Rangers during rescues, once above timberline is on large boulders leaving no sign of passage, and is the route used by the earliest FKT efforts. Lady Washington - 2 Hike all the way to Granite Pass to reach another trail junction. I have summited Longs … This approach will be at least 5 miles. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. All Rights Reserved. Trails that ascend Longs Peak include the East Longs Peak Trail, the Longs Peak Trail, the Keyhole Route, Clark's Arrow and the Shelf Trail. Longs Peak’s status as a protected wilderness site makes it ideal for studying wilderness landscapes and their relationship to modern urban industrial society. Longs Peak has more routes than any other mountain in the country – over 120, from exposed scrambles to cutting-edge difficulty, and pure rock to ice and mixed climbs. COLORADO 14ERS INITIATIVE LEARN MORE ABOUT COLORADO 14ERS AND VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Leave No Trace Check out the web site of LNT and learn some important minimum impact hiking tips.Colorado Mountain ClubCMC’s web site will tell you all you need to know about Colorado’s largest and oldest hiking club. Expect … The sign is morbid, but the description it gives of what lies ahead is spot on. At the fork, there is a horse/llama tie and small outhouse. Routes up the mountain range from the Class 3 Keyhole to the Hornsby's Direct Route rated at 5.8. Left: Vertical panorama of the Casual Route on the Diamond, Longs Peak, RMNP. You can read about the ashes on Long's Peak at:, As of 2009, camping at Longs Peak CG is $20 per night when the water is turned on (~Late May through ~mid-September) and $14 per night otherwise (i.e. Be off summits by noon and back in the valley by early afternoon.2. Expect dangerous exposure combined with mixed climbing on the Keyhole in the winter. (3 ). Note: Car-camping is not allowed in the parking area. They say that they urinate everywhere and scare away the natural wildlife. The last 1.5 miles is by far the most difficult, exposed and … July and August tend to be peak season. From the end of the East Longs Peak Trail in the Boulderfield, the Keyhole Route begins. (WINTER) HOLD ON! Hike 0.5 miles to a signed trail junction and stay left on the main trail. Longs Peak is the queen of the front range, rising high above the northern Colorado rocky mountains. All start from the Long's Peak Trailhead. She isn’t a mountain to be trifled with; More people have died climbing Longs Peak than any other mountain in the state. There are many ways to access this peak. Dogs) on Longs Peak. I have summited Longs 43 times, most recently in July 2016. © 2006-2020 Climbing Seasons. It's not the first time we go up Longs Peak, but between knee problems, weather and nearer routes, she still hasn't made the summit. The Diamond is the sheer and prominent east face of Longs Peak and named for the shape of the cliff. The Keyhole Route is one of the best scrambling routes on any of the Colorado 14,000' peaks. Keep hiking southwest along Mills Moraine to the Chasm Lake trail junction at 11,550'. The North Face of Longs Peak, also known as the Old Cables or just the Cables route, is a good alpine route and the most direct way to reach the summit of Longs Peak from the Boulderfield. It is not only the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park and Boulder County, but it is also the 15th highest peak in Colorado. Even when conditions are good the crowds make falling rocks a very real threat. As I was searching for info on Long's Peak on the web, I came across the odd fact that the ashes of Doak Walker were scattered on Long's Peak. It is a climb that crosses enormous sheer vertical rock faces, often with falling rocks, requiring scrambling, where an unroped fall would likely be fatal. The Keyhole Route is not a trail. The greatest weather danger is from lightning strikes, and climbers are killed almost every summer in Colorado by lightning strikes. Diamond Productions’ first poster was a map of Longs Peak. Beginning in the late nineteenth century, America’s affluent city dwellers became champions of protecte… From the Trailhead follow the well marked trail 5.9 miles to the Boulder Field at 12,750'. In ascending the Keyhole Route the climber will be exposed to height and could be exposed to many other dangers including: cold, wind, snow, avalanches, ice, icy rocks, hail, sleet, lightning, rain, slick rocks (even when dry), loose rocks, falling rocks, scrambling, difficult rock climbing (relative), route finding, do… Longs Peak Trail Conditions. The route spirals almost completely around the mountain and bailout descents will likely take you down Wild Basin or Glacier Gorge and make return to the trailhead a difficult proposition. Turn right and traverse west and northwest across the northeast slope of Mt. The Keyhole Route described below is the most climbed route of any fourteener route in the state and is a true classic climb. As of 2009, camping at Longs Peak CG is $20 per night when the water is turned on (~Late May through ~mid-September) and $14 per night otherwise (i.e. me and some buddies are heading up there to climb longs around June 19 and i was wondering what the weather and how much snowfall is usually there to see if we will need crampons? Many people have died on this route. He was famous for winning the Heisman trophy at SMU in 1948 and being exemplary in his academics and citizenship. For the southern approach, drive north 10 miles from the junction of CO 7 and CO 72 on the Peak to Peak Highway to the Ranger Station turnoff. Crouch on boot soles, ideally on dry, insulating material such as moss or grass. I have climbed up via the Keyhole route and descended using the Loft route. Lavaca adds: Though the Boulder field is the only place to set up tents on the mountain (and I think the spots get taken months in advance), you can bivouac at certain areas. Guidebooks that cover these routes are easy to find. The trail junction at Granite Pass with the North Longs Peak Trail (accessed via Bear Lake Road) lies 4.2 miles from the patrol cabin at the main trailhead. This section will have special meaning if you have ever been trapped by a storm that endures for more than an hour and leaves no gap between one peal of thunder and the next. Also, dogs are not allowed on this route. At the top of the Trough cross to Long's south side and travese across the south face along the exposed Narrows ledge. Boulders get larger and larger, quickly turning this part of the route into a whole body effort. Twin Sisters, Storm Peak and Mt Lady Washington are all nice climbs near Longs. There are 26 camping pads at the trailhead- right next to the ranger station. For the northern approach, drive 9.2 miles south from the intersection of US 36 and CO 7 to the turnoff for the Ranger Station. … Longs is now in view as well as the route past Mt. pjenson5 reports:You are not allowed to bring animals (i.e. At first, scrambling through the boulder field is easy, but that doesn’t last for long. The north face is an alpine clmbers dream, 1,000 feet of vertical granite at a base elevation of 13,000 feet. Iconic Longs Peak (14,259') is the highest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado's 15th highest summit, and the northern most 14,000' peak in the Rocky Mountains. Guide to the Keyhole Route. Keep a good eye on the sky as weather conditions can deteriorate rapidly. Colorado mountains are famous for afternoon storms. Most people will reach Longs Peak’s summit via a non-technical climbing route, and most people who hike a non-technical climbing route will go up the Keyhole Route—notably not called a “trail,” because it’s not a trail. The Keyhole Route is not a hike. The Longs Peak trail starts at 9,405 feet. Take the right-hand fork and continue hiking across Lady Washington’s Eastern slope to Granite Pass. Continue up through the forest and pass Goblins Forest. Only some technical climbing is required to reach the summit of Longs Peak during the summer season, which typically runs from mid July through early September. Try to determine if the lightning activity is cloud-to-cloud or ground strikes.5. From this site to the boulderfield campsite is about a 3 hour hike. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. By syncing the historical evolution of each walls routes in an architecturally stylistic form, these fine prints form an archival representation of some of the world’s most difficult routes. It is not uncommon to have over 100 people on the summit at a time on a busy summer weekend, and long lines of people following each other up and down the mountain, often too close for comfort. In practice, this route is easy to lose. Starting out at 1:00 AM could take11 hours roundtrip and just miss the afternoon thunder boomers. Summer storms can makes the Homestretch quite slippery, and the Trough will normally require an ice ax through mid July. You should also leave the trailhead as early as possible. Route finding on the loft route of Longs Peak has always been hit and miss. Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Rules; Route; 2017 Trip Reports + Notes; Presentation; Completions; Tour 14er. This is your guide to hiking Longs. The actual Keyhole Route begins after the Boulder Field. Separate yourself from metal objects.7. Be aware of ground currents; the current from a ground strike disperses along the ground or cliff, especially in wet cracks.4. Longs Peak is a special situation, as the FKT route does not follow the official trail. The following link is also helpful: Lightning Safety and CrouchAlso see this report by nchenkin It will make you really think about lightning safety: Struck By Lightning! More The Keyhole and Longs Peak via Longs Peak Trail is a 14.8 mile heavily trafficked out and back trail located near Allenspark, Colorado that features a lake and is rated as difficult. Switchback up a hill before crossing Alpine Brook on a log bridge. (31), Additions & Corrections July seems to be the most deadly month for lightning.Two climbers were killed by lightning in Colorado within a couple days of each other in the summer of 2003. Many people have died on this route. They are available first come first serve - no reservations are accepted. He's the namesake for the Doak Walker Award (see for college football's best running back. You cannot outrun a storm; physics wins.2. When caught, seek a safe zone in the 45-degree cone around an object 5 to 10 times your height.3. There are many spectacular ways to summit Long's Peak, and this description highlights the "standard" Keyhole Route. The trailhead is west of Colorado 7 and can be reached from the north or the south. Any feedback will be very helpful. Summer storms can makes the Homestretch quite slippery, and the Trough will normally require an ice ax through mid July. It's close proximity to Denver and its pure majesty make it the most popular climbing mountain in the state. For the southern approach drive north 10.5 miles from the junction of CO 7 and CO 72 on the Peak to Peak Highway to the Ranger Station turnoff. The choice is this: If you want to make a longer day and camp at the trailhead site, you will get to the boulderfield about sunrise- about the same time as those that camped there are about to leave. Start early! Done as a single day outing, the standard Keyhole route on Longs entails 15+ miles of hiking, 5,000 ft. of elevation gain, exposed scrambling with fall-risk potential, and difficult terrain above treeline, where storms roar in with regularity. Wet ropes are good conductors.5. Disperse the group. Lightning is dangerous!2. The face has a vertical gain of more than 900 feet (270 m) all above an elevation of 13,000 feet (4,000 m). This route is usually avoided when it's icy, wet, or windy. Stick with the NE face, which is windswept and a better line in the winter (crampons still required). I think the following important information from Gerry Roach's book "Colorado's Fourteeners From Hikes to Climbs" bears repeating. The first few hours stick to smooth but steep trail, then at the Boulderfield the route becomes a rocky scramble with occasional narrow sections above cliffs where a slip could kill. Longs is now in view as well as the route past Mt. While snow depth is usually not a problem, snowshoes are recommended for spots once you leave the trees but before the Boulder Field. Longs Peak offers more than one hundred routes to the summit but most people take the Keyhole Route. General directions seem simple enough: Get to the loft, head northwest, downclimb 150 feet, see the arrow, then pick up the home stretch. From the Long's Peak Trailhead the route is a classic class 3 climb and measures 15 miles round trip with 5000' elevation gain.This is a long, arduous ascent normally that gets quite difficult and even dangerous when conditions are bad. Whew!For a variation the climb up the Trough from the Glacier Gorge trailhead offers one of the longest snow climbs in Colorado. Scramble on another .3 mile to the large couloir called the Trough. Past the Homestretch its a 100 foot walk up to the summit. Longs enraptures all but the most heartless soul.” The Classic Hike: The Keyhole Route. This is a long climb with plenty of scrambling on the last mile. The wind can be relentless and demoralizing. For example, the For more "moderate" climbers look into "The Kieners" route or "The Cables' routes. It is unquestionably the monarch of the Front Range and northern Colorado. The Lady Washington and to Granite Pass - 1. Avoid water. Kiener's Route, also known as the Mountaineer's Route, is on the East Face of Long's and climbs parallel to the Diamond on the left. Mountain Conditions. ", Longs Peak Rainbow from Chasm Overlook above Boulderfield Camp, Colorado's Most Arduous Mountains, Routes and Rocks, Fred Beckey's Great Peaks of the Continent, Contiguous 14ers with 2,000 ft. of Prominence, Routes A strenuous out and back excursion that will have you transverse 13.5 miles in elevations increasing over 5,140 feet, the Longs Peak Summit — Keyhole Route is the easiest way to reach to Longs Peak Summit. The best time to climb Longs Peak is from early July to mid-September. It is very fun and popular. Longs Peak has dozens of routes to its summit, and the majority are accessed from the East Longs Peak Trailhead. Unless you’re hauling technical climbing gear, are familiar with the area, or have mountaineering experience, you’re most likely going to be most interested in the Keyhole, or Loft Routes. Right: Jenny on the traversing 3rd pitch of the Casual Route. Longs can be seen from the I-25 corridor running from south Denver, all the way north to the Wyoming border. Choose your route wisely and make sure it is in your abilities. I use it for training for climbs such as Everest and K2. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Lightning is the greatest external hazard to summer mountaineering in Colorado.3. I would say if you dont mind 3 hours longer hike - hike from the lower site and save having to lug tents and stuff to boulderfield campsite. It is first come first serve so get a hold of the Park Service well in advance of your visit to avoid any undesirable encounters with the Park Service. The Keyhole Route is by far the most popular route on the mountain. If you don't have much high-elevation, winter climbing experience, be careful in your planning and take a partner. The highest mountain in the Park. The mountains are their own weather system, and weather forecasts from nearby towns often have little to do with actual mountain conditions. Renowned for a very long approach and a trail full of people, Longs Peak is the closest 14er to Denver, Ft. Collins, Greeley and Boulder. Survivors can revive one who is hit.9.  More Trip Reports, Rocky Mountain National Park & Indian Peak Wilderness-USGS-TOPO Mega Maps. Longs Peak Summit- Keyhole Route. Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk: The trailhead is west of Colorado 7 and can be reached from the north or the south. There are several trailheads, but most routes and variations start from the Long's Peak Trailhead. Climb the Trough to the Long's west ridge. Observe thunderhead buildup carefully, noting speed and direction; towering thunderheads with black bottoms are bad.3. The Long's Peak Trailhead is at 9400 feet and provides access to the East Long's Peak Trail. Continue southwest to the Keyhole at 13,150'. Try to climb during the week if possible to avoid the crowds- this is a VERY popular mountain. Gary and I had talked on an attempt of the Kiener’s Route on Longs over the last six months and with the continuation of a spell of beautiful fall weather, the time was ripe. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Cross the slabs carefully, especially if they are wet. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Cable Route, Winter, - The Home of Colorado's Highest Peaks, Parting Shot- May All Your Days be Filled with Rainbows, Longs Peak via the Trough in Winter: A Test of Fortitude, Keeping an Old Appointment with Longs Peak, Paying A Visit To The Forgotten Ones + Longs, Alpine Dreams, or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Climb the Damn Mountain, Longs Peak Ski Descent: South Face to Loft Couloir, Kicking it up a Notch: A Culinary Climbing Experience on Long's Peak, A Nice Finish to Calendar Winter ‘09 – Longs Peak 03/14/09, Douchey and Gimpy's Excellent Adventure - Keiners / Notch Couloir, 41 Leave the Longs Peak trailhead and follow the well-word path to Chasm Junction about 3.5 miles. The North Face is a technical route of modest difficulty with minimal 5th class terrain. Self-Powered Longs Peak Project; Tour of the Highest Hundred. Just before reaching the ridge you must pass a chockstone, probably the most difficut move on the climb. Expect arctic conditions in the winter. Summer is easiest and most popular. The trail offers a number of activity options and is best used from April until November. Photo Credit: Spencer McKee. Most who perish or get injured do so because they’re unprepared and don’t realize the significance of this route. You can generally count on clear to partly cloudy in the morning, and heavy clouds and thunderstorms in the afternoon during the summer.There is no substitute for getting an early start, and getting as much of the mountain "behind you" as early in the day as possible. Longs Peak, North Face a.k.a. Be sure to follow the painted bull's-eyes marking from here. From the Longs Peak Trailhead to the summit of Longs Peak along the Keyhole Route is 7.5 miles. View Longs Peak Image Gallery - 1096 Images. It is a world-famous Alpine climb. The term simultaneous flash-boom has a very personal meaning for many Colorado Climbers.Dangers1. It is tent camping only, with toilet facilities, benches, and fire pits. 1. 4. Keyhole Route signage on Longs Peak. Length 14.8 miElevation gain 5039 ftRoute type Out & back Added here with permission from Gerry Roach:Colorado is famous for apocalyptic lightning storms that threaten not just your life, but your soul as well. And many hikers end up biting off more than they can chew. (1096), Climber's Log Entries Be careful of falling rocks on this route from other climbers.Technical routes include the Keyhole Ridge route (5.5) Kieners (5.3-5.4) Alexander's Chimney (5.5) Stettners Ledge (5.7+) and Hornsbys Direct (5.8). This is by far not a guide for the peak - buy all the guidebooks you can as they all have something different to say. Snow is not a good conductor.6. The Keyhole Route is by far the most popular route on the mountain. But Longs Peaks has a number of other routes to top, the most popular of which is “The Keyhole” a stout, Class 3, climb (scrambling over large boulders, with exposure to long falls) gaining over 5,500 feet in elevation from the trailhead on a 16-mile round trip journey. when water is turned off.) Now I also create and sell maps of El Cap and Half Dome. If you are an experienced and well prepared winter mountaineer, than this can be one of the most peaceful and beautiful winter climbs in the Front Range. There is a tent campground nearby and a couple of full campgrounds near Meeker Park. Camping is allowed at the Boulder Field but you must check in with the Ranger Station first. Dirt is better than rock. All 14er routes are more difficult and more dangerous in winter. Walker died on September 28, 1998 from complications from a skiing accident. These sites have some flat areas under boulders if you look hard. Route Descriptions for Longs Peak. (639), Comments "Go away or I shall replace you with a very small shell script. Save your strength for the last 1,000 feet, you will need it. To get to the route start hiking at the Long's Peak trailhead, and hike until you reach the cutoff for Chasm Lake. In summer, start very early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. Leave the heavy forest shortly after the stream crossing and continue up to tree line near 11,000' (approximately 2.5 miles from the trailhead).
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